Chateaus & Castles Cont.
* Chateau Amboise
The dominant renaissance style of Château d' Amboise in the Loire Valley, France, is there for all to see well before you even enter the town as its position high above the Loire river makes it obvious from quite a distance. The chateau was built on the foundations of an old fortress, its position perched high on a promontory over looking the Loire, offering a solid defence against any intruders. The chateau was seized by Charles VII in the mid 1400’s after its owner, Louise d’Amboise was involved in a plot against the monarchy. He was later to be pardoned but the chateau remained in the hands of the king. In 1429 Joan of Arc passed through the town on her way to defeat the English at Orleans.
In the late fifteenth century, following his marriage to Anne of Brittany at Langeais, Charles VIII decided to turn the old castle of his childhood days into a luxurious palace but not long after the work was completed, Charles met his death here – not in the defence of his kingdom – but by banging his head on one of the many low doorways!The history of the château was marked by three famous ladies, all of whom has a different room named after them: Joan of Arc, Anne of Brittany and Agnes Sorel, Charles VII's favourite mistress.
During the 15th and 16th centuries it became a favourite of the French kings as a place to house their wives and children while they sought the company of their mistresses elsewhere. King Henry II and his wife, Catherine de Medici lived here along with Mary Stuart the child queen of Scotland, who had been promised to the future king Francois II. These were to be the glory years at the chateau prior to its decline and loss of favour with the Royals. At the beginning of the 17th century, the chateau was all but abandoned when the property passed into the hands of the brother of the King Louis XIII. After his death it returned to the Crown and was turned into a state prison. It then suffered at the hands of the Revolutionaries and Emperor Napoleon Its restoration inside and out was begun by King Louis-Philippe during his reign but with his abdication in 1848, the château was confiscated by the government. There was a setback with damage during the second world war but restoration continued and in 1974 the Saint-Louis Foundation took over its administration and continued its restoration programme.
* Chateau de Chaumont-sur-Loire
Chateau Chaumont-sur-Loire was built on the site of a former fortress that had dominated the Loire river offering resistance to the many attacks on the Royal town of Blois using this route. Its location overlooking the town and the river made it an ideal place to build a chateau for more peaceful times.
Work was begun by Charles d’ Amboise in 1466, and continued by many owners over the centuries. After the death of Henry II in 1559 it was bought by his wife Catherine de Medicis who proceeded to force Diane de Poitiers (Henry’s former mistress) to give up the beautiful Chateau Chenonceau in exchange for living here. Diane added her touch and influence as did many other owners, though none more so than Prince Amadee de Broglie. He moved here with his new bride in 1875 and did much to restore its former splendour as well as remodelling the park, creating gardens in an ‘English’ style.
* Chateau de Villandry
If the Loire Valley is known as the garden of France then at Chateau Villandry we must have the garden of the Loire Valley. The chateau Villandry dates from circa 1536 when it was built by one of Francois 1’s finance ministers, Jean le Breton. Le Briton was also responsible for overseeing the construction of the royal ‘flight of fancy’ that is chateau Chambord. The tower which looks a little out of place is all that remains of the old fortress he demolished to make way for the chateau. As with most chateaux the French Revolution saw Villandry being confiscated before eventually being acquired for Joseph Bonaparte (brother of the Emperor) in the early 1800’s.
The chateau and gardens you see today, which combine flowers and vegetables, are courtesy of a Spaniard, Dr.Joachim Carvallo who purchased them in 1906. He poured a great deal of time and money into the project the results of which are breathtaking, especially when viewed from the top of the tower.
* Chateau de Chinon
If you want to immerse yourself in the history of France and England then a visit to the mighty Royal Fortress at Chinon is a good place to start your journey. Its strategic position becomes obvious long before you actually enter the town, sitting as it does on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Vienne river. Chinon sits at the meeting point of three French provinces Anjou, Poitou and Touraine and as such has been an important defensive location since Gallo-Roman times. The Counts of Blois erected the first real castle on the site in the 10th century which they held until 1044 when they were overthrown by their bitter rivals the Counts of Anjou.
It would not be until 1154 that it began to take on part of its now famous fortress appearance, when it became the main residence of Henry II, the King of England who was also then Count of Anjou (Angevin King). It reigned supreme as the home of the Plantagenet king and his wife Aliénor (Eleanor) d'Aquitaine until 1189 when the king died grieving over the betrayal of his son Richard (Lionheart). In 1205,after an eight month siege, Philip-Auguste conquered Chinon and the province of Anjou was annexed to France. It continued to serve as a royal residence throughout the following centuries.
The chateau has very strong links to the Knights Templar, a military order of the Roman Catholic Church, formed to protect Christians in the Holy Land during the early Crusades and now vey much the stuff of legends. It was here that the Grand Masters of the order were imprisoned in 1308 before being put to death in Paris by order of the Vatican. They also decreed that the order be disbanded. Much of what we now know of their trial was uncovered with the discovery of what is now known as ‘Chinon parchment’ in the Vatican archives. You can trace some of the history of the Templars through an interactive exhibit and trail laid out in the park and towers of the fortress.
Perhaps the most famous event at the chateau took place in 1429 during the Hundred Years’ War when Joan of Arc met with the indecisive and somewhat cowardly dauphin Charles VII. He had installed a small court there a couple of years earlier, taking refuge from the Burgundians and the English. Joan persuaded Charles to stand up against the English and reclaim his throne and was, eventually, given leave to form an army to change the fortunes of the French and to set up her own tragic destiny.
The most westerly part of the fortress Fort Coudray contains the 13th century keep or Tower of Coudray and Tower of Boissy plus the Tower of Mill, built at the end of the 12th century. The keep,12metres diameter and 25 metres high, had been added by Philip Augustus to strengthen its military capacity. It has three floors and they have played there part in history with Joan of Arc being housed in one of them during her stay at Chinon and as a prison for the Knights Templar grand masters before being put to death.
* Château d'Azay le Rideau
The castle was built by Gilles Berthelot, a wealthy financier, in 1510, in the early years of the architectural Renaissance. The time of the attacks of castles is gone. New residences no longer needed defensive equipment. By their ostentation they must show the wealth of their owner. Nevertheless, in this stereotyped setting, the castle of Azay le Rideau is an exception: it is fortified, because Berthelot feared the surrounding vandals. But naturally, it is also luxuriously decorated, with tapestries, wall carpets, massive carpentry, large fireplaces, loggias, sculptures and other artistic objects. Built during the reigns of Kings Louis XII and François Ier, it is very characteristic as it was placed in the middle of the river, the Indre, and looked like a small island. But the building knew by its beauty to stir the jealousy of the great powers of the time, and it was confiscated by King François Ier.
* Castle Angers
The Château d’Angers, construction of which began in 1230 under Louis IX is different from most of the other chateaux of the Loire as its construction only uses tufa as a decorative feature, as in the bands around its seventeen towers. The main material used is the grey Anjou schist which gives the chateau its formidable, impenetrable appearance. Although the English never actually besieged the structure, it functioned as a place of retreat during the Hundred Years’ War (1337-1453). It's towers were at one time much higher and turreted before being lowered to the height they now stand. It remained the seat of power for the Angevin kings throughout medieval times. Inside the ramparts hide a lovely Renaissance style garden and chapel within the walls of the chateau, appearing unexpectedly as if on an internal plateau. You can walk the ramparts of the fortress - where it can be quite breezy - overlooking the city and surroundings from its soaring towers and get a feeling of the security it once provided.
The chateau houses a tapestry museum that includes the famous 140 metre long Apocalypse series tapestries of Nicholas Bataille.
* Chateau de Chateaudun
The Eure-et-Loir market town of Chateaudun on the Loir (without the 'e') river is notable for its grand chateau which looks out of place sitting as it does on its limestone outcrop at such a great height above the town. It was home to Jean de Dunois, comrade in arms of Joan of Arc. It has evolved from its 12th century fortress origins to be the building it is today with the help of various noblemen adding wings and with the Renaissance leaving its mark as well. It has been listed as a 'monument historique' since 1918.
The town with its 16th century half-timbered houses, church and square is charming like so many others in France. The walkway under the shadow of the chateau above the river valley, has been turned into a public garden.
* Chateau du Grand-Pressigny
The chateau's formidable keep, built at the end of XIIth century was later enhanced by a strong defensive enclosure with towers. The impressive ramparts surrounding the castle date from the 14th century. This was timely as because of its location between the English and French conflicts it became a strategic stronghold during the 100 Years War. The duke of Burgundy an ally of the English, seized the castle in 1417 but only held it for a year before it was retaken for the French by the dolphin Charles, the future Charles VII. The chateau was restored around 1560 by Honorat de Savoie, a loyal lord to the Kings of France. The arcaded gallery built during the wars of religion around the main courtyard shows the care devoted to this restoration.
The chateau at Le Grand-Pressigny is an interesting place to visit as it not only has architectural qualities and a pretty garden but it is also home to the area's Museum of Prehistory.
* Chateau de Montpoupon
Still privately owned the chateau has gone through a number of transformations during its lifetime. Apparently it started its life as a medieval fortress though its location couldn't have made it easy to defend -- aren't they supposed to be on rocky out crops or something! This is probably why it had to be rebuilt after the Hundred Years war! The most recent restorations have been in a Renaissance style. The chateau itself has well furnished period rooms giving you a taste of family life within, there is also a reserved bedroom for the 'King' a tradition many chateau adopted in case royalty came to call.
* Chateau de Cande
Chateau de Cande, which has its own unique fairytale look, will not be on most Loire Valley visitor's 'must see' list but I think that, for British and American visitors especially, it should be! I say this because whereas the wonderful Chateaux de Loire will forever be linked with the French Royals and their colourful history, here we have an important link to to the history of the British Royal family and a scenario that was to change its course forever. For one thing Colin Firth would never have won his Oscar ('The king's speech') but more importantly Britain would have missed the influence of its 'Queen Mother' and 'Elizabeth II'. The event which was to change the country's history was that of the marriage of Edward, Prince of Wales to the American divorcee Wallis Simpson on June 3rd 1937.Well actually his abdication on the 10th of December the previous year did that - but it was to this end.
Wallis Simpson had come here to escape the harassment of the press who were making life very uncomfortable for her where she was staying with friends in Cannes.
Her friends were also friends of Fern Bedaux the wife of the owner of Chateau de Cande here in the Touraine. Her husband a rich American industrialist had bought the chateau 10 years earlier. Fern gave over her apartments here so as Wallis could get some peace. It seemed the obvious place to have the marriage.
As soon as you walk through the front portal you are met with the grandeur one would expect of any grand chateau of the Loire Valley but this is different in that it was neither built by, or used by, royalty. 'The man who would not be king' Edward , Prince of Wales would be the closest it would get to 'royal' patronage.
* Chateau du Lude
Chateau de Lude the most northerly of the great Loire Valley chateaux, can be found in the small town of Le Lude in the department of Sarthe within the region of Pays de Loire in France. Its almost humble entrance squeezed between the narrow streets of the town belies its splendour. Once you walk through its arched portal you are met by a building that is a fabulous example of the evolution of French architecture. Here you have the result of the origins of a medieval fortress (10th/11th century) being embellished over the years. This great chateau is still the family home of Count and Countess Louis-Jean de Nicolay, (whose family have owned it for over 250 years), who carry on its restoration.
* Chateau de l'Islette
Sitting slightly upriver from its more famous neighbour Chateau Azay le Rideau, Chateau de l'Islette knows that it has a job on to attract the tourists through its portal and establish itself as a major Loire Valley attraction. It has, in our opinion all the necessary credentials, a beautiful renaissance exterior, lovely relaxing gardens and owners who are prepared to put in the effort to put it firmly on Loire Valley visitors itineraries.
The chateau, the oldest part of which dates from the 15th century, has only been open to the public since 2010 and a visit includes a tour of the chateau (around 45min.), which, when we visited was presented with enthusiasm, giving you its history. They are proud of the fact that Auguste Rodin and Camille Claudel choose l'Islette for their romantic trysts and the tour takes you in their footsteps.
* Chateau de Serrant
Built over three different centuries the Chateau de Serrant has somehow managed to keep a unified look - and stood the test of time -a credit to its creators and builders. Charles de Brie was responsible for it's conception aided by the drawings of Philibert Delorme who also has Fontainbleau to his credit. Whichever view you take in of this lovely chateau you will not be disappointed. The chateau has beautiful cellars that have been redesigned as kitchens and medieval halls. You can take a tour of these with the rest of the of the chateau and view it's sumptuously furnished apartments displaying the usual array of tapestries and works of art that befits such a noble residence. The staircase is a fine example of Renaissance design and you will be equally impressed by this and first floor ceilings as well as it's fine library - apparently housing over 12,000 volumes! You can also visit the Emperor Napoléon's bedroom though he never actually slept in it! He did visit for a couple of hours however.
Today the chateau de Serrant is the private residence of Prince and Princess de Merode-Waterloo (must be bit of history behind that name!) who are descendants of the la Tromoille family who had brought their own history to the place through the marriage of the duke of Tromoille to Valentine Walsh in 1830. No not French -- The Walsh family (from Ireland) who had taken self-imposed exile to France due to their support for the dethroned Stuarts of Scotland had bought the chateau in 1749.. A number of stories exist that he was given it as reward for his support of the king against the English and for providing the ship for Bonnie Prince Charlie to return to Scotland for the 1745 uprising. It was the Walsh dynasty that created the English style gardens and it is their crest you see on the chateau gates.
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